Food writer Michael Pollan wrote in the New York Times yesterday that he needs the public’s help. He is gathering rules on eating well and wants people from all different cultures to contribute. Finally, grandmothers all over the world can pipe up – Michael is listening.
He says: “In recent years we’ve deferred to the voices of science and industry when it comes to eating, yet often their advice has served us poorly”. He recalls how his own Russian-Jewish grandfather used to say you should leave the table a little bit hungry. Strangely enough this is a tale my dad tells of his own grandfather – a Cornish farmer born at the end of the Victorian era.
Apparently Russian-Jewish food wisdom is not the only connection Cornwall has with more exotic cultures. Popping home the other weekend I was astonished to find Brindisa raw chorizo in a gorgeous little deli called The Digey in St Ives. I’d visited Borough Market only the week before to source the stuff, thinking what an advantage it is to now live in the capital as opposed to the Cornish outback. I was wrong.
Six chorizo sausages cost around £5, but I froze them in pairs to make them last. One recipe I made up worked particularly well. It involves using a Delia cheat ingredient, which I’m not terribly proud of, but needs must.
1 Jus-Roll pastry case (Sainsbury’s chiller cabinet), baked blind
2 chorizo sausages, chopped into coins
A few baby leeks
1/2 an onion
4 eggs
creme fraiche
grated cheddar cheese
Just fry the onion and leeks in some olive oil until they’re nicely caramelised, adding the chorizo towards the end so it just cooks through. Spoon into the bottom of the pre-cooked pastry case. Beat together the eggs and creme fraiche. Season and pour over the chorizo mixture. Finally sprinkle grated cheese over the top and bake at 190 degrees C (375 degrees f) Mark 5 for about 30 minutes or until golden.
Finally, eat until a little bit (just the tiniest bit) hungry.
Anna-Marie Julyan 